Travel opens the mind. You, dear Japan, are on many a travel bucket-list. And rightly so.
Over a recent half-term break, I was lucky enough to ‘tick you off’, travelling for a mixture of school business and cultural exploration.
Dazzled by the bright lights and wide streets of Tokyo, with its ultra-modern buildings, including the sky tree – the tallest tower in the word, I savoured the careful combination of buildings and space in this daring built environment.

I travelled your magnificently efficient and intuitive underground system and experienced the smooth rapidity of the legendary shinkansen. The well-kept streets; the generous walk-ways; the high-tech toilets that offer a perplexing range of options that I won’t go into now. There was a remarkable, orderly calm presiding over this huge city. There was virtually no traffic noise – most vehicles are electric – and very little sense of stress or push-and-shove, despite the massive volume of human activity.
Away from the urban setting, I could talk about the many magnificent gardens: places of life-enhancing tranquillity and mesmerising beauty. Raked stones; trees and shrubs expertly shaped and carefully placed to create a strange combination of both movement and stillness.
The eye-catching asymmetric placements of rocks; the meandering paths over gently flowing streams, with golden carp moving gently in the flow. The sound of water. The sight of wooden temples and pagodas, prayer rooms and tea houses.
The countless shrines and temples witnessing to the permeating power of both the Buddhist and Shinto faiths in Japanese culture.
The magnificence of Mount Fuji. The soulful gaze of the mountain macaques of Arashyama…
I could talk about the people I encountered – their deeply attentive hospitality and warmth of welcome; their extraordinary politeness; the respect and consideration for others.
And then there’s the work ethic. The Japanese struck me as a people of fastidious industry. Almost every person I saw doing whatever job they were doing, did so with high intention and focus. Whether it was the cleaners in the hotels and on the subways; the conductors on the trains; the servers in cafes and restaurants; the staff at the various events I attended. What I observed was a culture where doing things excellently was simply expected, whatever your role or activity.
As well as leading a seminar at the British Boarding School Fair in Tokyo, I had the honour of visiting Keio University, with whom Shrewsbury School has a long-standing partnership.
It was here that I learned of the life-work of Fukuzawa Yukichi, who founded Keio University in 1858. He was a truly exceptional human: a visionary and transformative leader.
Often called the “father of modern Japanese education,” Fukuzawa played a pivotal role in Japan’s transformation from a feudal society into a modern, enlightened nation. His life story is one of courage, curiosity, and conviction.
Born into a low-ranking samurai family, Fukuzawa grew up in a rigidly hierarchical society where social mobility was nearly impossible. Yet, he believed that education could break these barriers. At a time when Japan was largely closed off from the world, he taught himself Dutch and later English to access Western knowledge. His thirst for learning led him to travel abroad with Japan’s first diplomatic missions to the United States and Europe. These experiences opened his eyes to the power of science, democracy and individual rights.
Fukuzawa returned to Japan determined to share what he had learned. He founded Keio Gijuku, which later became Keio University, Japan’s first modern private university. His goal was to cultivate independent thinkers who could lead Japan into a new era.
He believed in dokuritsu jison – “independence and self-respect” – arguing that individuals must take responsibility for their own lives and contribute positively to society; cultivate their own judgment and strive to be self-sufficient—intellectually, economically, and morally. That people should not rely blindly on authority, tradition or others for their beliefs or well-being. In his view, a society made up of independent individuals would be more resilient, innovative, and capable of progress. Fukuzawa believed that people who respect themselves are more likely to respect others, be good citizens – and resist oppression or injustice.
During my visit I was shown into the debating chamber at Keio. A simple space with extraordinary significance. Fukuzawa’s then-disruptive belief was that everyone, whatever their notional place in society, had a voice that was worth hearing. It is hard to appreciate just how radical an idea this was at the time.
This was the first debating space in Japan. It was nothing less than the birthplace of equal free speech in Japan.
It met with heavy opposition from the existing hierarchy. Undeterred, Fukuzawa championed free speech, introducing public speaking to the education curriculum. He was also an early advocate for women’s rights, urging equality between husbands and wives; that girls should be given the same education as boys; that all parents to give equal love to daughters and sons.
During my visit to Keio, the Vice-Principal told me a story: one day, a young student visiting Keio Gijuku (now Keio University) wandered into the school’s garden and saw an elderly man quietly tending to the plants. Not knowing who the man was, the student respectfully bowed and greeted him, as was customary in Japanese culture. The elderly man returned the bow with equal respect. This was unusual: some kind of gesture of superiority from the old man would have been normal. Instead, the old man said to the young student: “Heaven does not create one man above or below another.”

Later, the student learned that the man he had greeted was none other than Fukuzawa Yukichi, the founder of the school and one of Japan’s most revered intellectuals. The student was astonished, having expected someone of such stature to be distant or formal. This story is a vignette of Fukuzawa’s humility despite his fame; his belief in equality and mutual respect, regardless of status; and the importance of character over rank.
In a world where we are constantly influenced by media and external expectations, Fukuzawa’s life message encourages us to:
- Think critically and independently
- Take responsibility for our choices
- Value education and lifelong learning
- Treat ourselves and others with dignity
His courage in challenging the standards of his time moved and inspired me. Not many people lead lives that get their image on the currency. Fukuzawa was, for decades, the face of the 10,000 Yen (£50) note. That tells us a lot.

What did I take away from my short time in Japan? Well, firstly, that I would like to go back! It was indeed mind-opening. To my eyes, admittedly working on the basis of just a few days of observation, Japan has struck an enviable balance between being pro-tech and pro-human; a unique and uplifting blend of modernity and tradition; a culture of high intention and purpose.
And I expanded my Japanese vocabulary. When I landed in Tokyo I could say two words: hello and thank you. I’ve added at least three more Japanese words – words that have entered western lexicon:
Kawaii: meaning “cute” or “adorable”, this reflects a cultural aesthetic celebrating innocence, charm, and childlike qualities in fashion, behaviour and design. A playful innocence that is not everyone’s cup of tea – but curiously contagious! Life is serious. Kawaii keeps things light.
Mottainai: the art of not wasting anything, which conveys respect for resources, encouraging reuse, conservation and appreciation for the intrinsic value of things. None of us likes waste – of resources; talent; energy – or time. As Shrewsbury’s own Charles Darwin once remarked – ‘a man who dares to waste one hour of time has not discovered the value of life’.
Ikigai: A broad concept, it roughly translates as ‘reason for being’; our purpose in life. As I understand it, ikigai is about giving full intention to the present moment; about living with a purpose that aligns with your skills and passions; and serves your community. The spirit of ikigai has been submitted to western simplification – in the form of a venn diagram. Ikigai refers to that which brings value, meaning and longevity in life. Japan has more people over the age of 90 than any other nation. Maybe living well is the key to living long.
Dear Japan, I had just a few days with you. How much more would I have learned from you if I had stayed longer?
As it was, I returned home with a fresh commitment to a culture of politeness and respect; to high performance; to doing things well; and to helping others to discover their ikigai – and to pursue my own. Because living well is everything: and Shrewsbury is for life.










































































